Restoring a 1962 Jaguar E-Type

October 5, 2008

Irresistible force

Filed under: Uncategorized — Penforhire @ 11:22 am

I had no idea an original seatbelt could have that much value (see Patrick’s comment on last post)! I would gladly sell mine to expedite my restoration but I don’t think mine have the markings Patrick indicated.

Here’s the flip side of the latch and the ink stamp on the belt weave.

The buckle has no other stamping than shown in the last post and the ink text on the weave, barely discernable, seems to say “Merchandisers & MFRS. INC MODEL + 75.16” The drivers’ side belt is the same but even harder to read. I am just planning to bin these belts.

I was looking closely at the foot pedals after I soaked them in solvent for weeks. They still seem to have some sort of corrosion on them, partly rust, partly something else.

Here is one pedal after soaking the end in rust remover.

Note the clean dividing line, so rust was part of the issue. The remaining black looks like an oxide coating from the factory. Maybe porosity allows corrosion over the years. Anyone know what the original black coating is supposed to be? It is too tough to be paint.

The driver’s seat rear nuts continued to resist my charms since my last post. Here’s one of them. You can barely make out a nut in that pile of rust.

I happened to be at Sears when one of their “bolt-out” kits was on sale. And I thought I’d try a “Gator grip” socket as well.

That $10 Gator socket on the left is one of those as-seen-on-TV products and looks cheesy. However they claim it’ll withstand over 100 ft-lb of force and that’s a lot. And, um, I always wanted to play with one of them. Unfortunately the nut was not clearly enough defined for this to work.

The bolt-out sockets on the right have a helical reverse edge in them that grips damaged bolt or nut heads to extract them. Seems like a fine idea and this kit was only $10 on sale! Unfortunately I had no joy with those either. When I got enough grip they just shaved the rust instead of turning the nuts.

Heavy sigh. I had tried soaking the areas in rust remover but I couldn’t keep them wet enough for long enough. I applied penetrating oil when they first indicated they’d be stubborn.

Gary suggested the chisel technique, thinking to split the nuts off the bolt. That worked on one nut. It started turning before I had chiseled all the way through it. See the nut on the left in the photo below.

The other nut resisted enough chisel pounding that I threw in the towel and got out a Dremel cut-off wheel. I would not recommend this if your seat frame is okay but mine is a total write-off for rust so a little cutting wasn’t going to hurt anything. And I was careful enough to not damage the stud, which might get replaced anyway. See the nut on the right in the photo below.

Success! It only required some irresistible force.

1 Comment »

  1. Our product will penetrate and lube your nuts even better. It has the lowest viscosity on the market.

    Did that sound right?

    SP3 Best Penetrating Oil

    Comment by Bill Palmer — March 7, 2009 @ 12:29 pm

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